Monday, 19 July 2010
Friday, 9 July 2010
Thursday, 8 July 2010
new song to watch out for this july :)
How to create a natural eye using 3 colours
Have you ever wanted to apply eyeshadow but don't know how? I would recommend you start with an eyeshadow trio or an eyeshadow quad. Most brands that sell trio or quad eyeshadows have already taken the guesswork out of which colours will work together. 
A natural look is obtained by subtle blending of 3 eyeshadow shades.
- For a natural makeup, use a light shade of eye shadow. Apply the lightest shade as a base on the whole eye lid area up to the brow bone. Even the shadow out with a firm applicator.
- Next apply a medium shade to the eyelid area only. Blend the 2 shades.
- With another applicator, use a medium to darker eyeshadow shade. Apply along the base of the eyelashes, shading it off upwards at the outer corner of the eye.
- If you feel like trying something a little different or you want to experiment with colour, use an iridescent shade of eyeshadow and apply it to the centre of the eye lid. If you want to add colour, pop a bright onto your lid or frame your eye with blue eyeliner. This will intensify the makeup.
- Add mascara and voila, you have the perfect, natural, contoured eye.
For a darker smokey eye look, apply darker shades or more of your day colour to deepen the tone.
I have provided below some tips based on your eye colour.
BROWN EYES:
Brown, Ivory and natural tones will always work for you. Shades of green and pink will make your eyes pop and blue will contrast with your brown eyes. With blue eyeshadow, my general rule is to use a hint of blue along the lash line and top it up with eyeliner. Blue shaded eyes seem to be hot on the catwalk right now.
BLUE EYES:
Try earth tones, brown, taupe, ivory and greys. Plums and Purples are great for blue eyes.
GREEN AND HAZEL EYES:
Purple eye shadow makes green and hazel eyes pop. Purple is great for a more dramatic look and it will make your eyes look even greener. Browns, gold, taupe and ivory work really well with dark purple tones.
Men's suits: tailored trends in 2009 and 2010
Men's fashion trends are few and far between; yes, a lot of women's trends are eventually adapted to the men's market, but if 2010 men's hair trends prove anything it is that classics will always rule when it comes to men's fashion. Unsurprisingly it's no different when it comes to men's suits.
While suiting and formal-wear trends for men aren't seasonal (unless, of course, you're talking about the weight of the cloth) and play out over several years, 2010 and 2011 continue the change in men's suiting that rose to the fore in recent years. For the foreseeable future the trend in men's suiting revolves around the classics, but more specifically modern takes on the classics. A good suit for this decade will take the best elements from the peak eras of men's suiting (think the formality of the Victorian era, the savoir faire of the 1930s and the skinny detailing of the 1960s) and apply them to a modern silhouette.
So what elements should you look for?
The Cut of the Suit
In men's suiting there's a move away from the 'skinny boy' suit, but that's not to say slim is out altogether nor that a boxy cut has replaced it. Instead, think of a cut that takes would appeal to a military officer, one that accents a sense of the masculine through three key silhouette elements:
- broad shoulders
- a slim waist
- slim trousers
As for the individual cuts?
Double Breasted Suits and Sportscoats
Double breasted Tom Ford suits from Tom Ford Spring / Summer 2010 collection
If there's one cut that I'm glad I've been able to return to my wardrobe for this decade it's the modern, double-breasted suit. Those of you old enough to remember the last time the double breasted suit or sports coat was in (the 1980s through to the mid 1990s) may remember the boxy cut it inevitably came with. Fear not, that cut is gone (and if you're still sitting on double breasted suiting from that era, take it off to the tailors to refresh its life). In its place is a cut that pairs broad shouldered with a slim waist, a cut that defies what double breasted suits were originally designed to do: hide a plump figure. Instead their now designed to accent and to heighten the perfect masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body.
One additional styling tip: when selecting a double-breasted suit look for the "Kent" cut. Named after a style popularised by the The Prince George, Duke of Kent, it's a cut of double breasted suits where a longer lapel line extends into the waist. That is to say: the part of the double breasted suit that sits on the front buttons on the waist line (as picture on the Duke of Windsor, right). This small detail will convey height and, if cut correctly, a slimmer waist. You'll find the Kent suit cut amongst a number of collections, including D&G Fall 2010 (pictured below).
Double breasted Kent cut D&G suits D&G men's Autumn (Fall) / Winter 2010 / 2011
Neo-Double Breasted Suit
Neo double breasted suit from Marc Jacobs men's Autumn (Fall) / Winter 2010 / 2011
Three-Piece Suits
Let's face it: the waistcoat has long been a dead item for most men, but thanks to a resurgence in its popularity in men's street wear the suits' waistcoat is back with vengeance. Well, not quite vengeance but it's back, it's subtle and it's classic. And that means that in 2009 we'll witness the return of the three-piece suit, and I couldn't be more happy. That's because the three-piece suit has been one of the most under-utilised parts of a man's wardrobe over the last forty years.
The three-piece in 2009 is all about cohesion; forget the mismatching style prevalent in the early parts of the 20th Century and in the 1980s. The return of the three-piece means that the waistcoat has to be conservative and, thus, in the same fabric as the suit's other two pieces. If you do want to venture outside the realm of three matching pieces, stick to a similar colour palette and avoid any pattern except for stripes; you may want to pair a pinstripe black suit with a pinstripe charcoal waistcoat.
On selecting the perfect three-piece suit I'd recommend looking for a waistcoat whose V shape breaks somewhere between the sternum and the base of the rib cage. I've seen three pieces from the likes of Giorgio Armani which don't sport the V shape and finish just under the collar, these are going to be a lot harder to wear and ignore the conservative subtlety this revival depends upon. Moreover, such a large waistcoat won't convey a slim waist as effectively as one with a deeper neck.
The Fabric / Suit Cloth
As we've returned to the classics with double breasted and three-piece suits, then it should come as no surprise that classic cloths, patterns and fabrics have also returned. As an added bonus, adding classic cloths to your wardrobe allows for the inclusions of fabrics and colours that you mightn't otherwise have as an option (and helps you steer away from having the typical men's wardrobe: black, grey, navy).
While the following are classic suit patterns perfect for 2010, 2011 and beyond, don't forget that you can also work these same cloths into components of men's suiting without making it an actual suit; that is, sportcoats, blazers and trousers.
Harris Tweed
Houndstooth
Herringbone
Pinstripe
Rope-stripe
Of course, nothing is more classic or 'formal' than the dinner suit. But its rules vary greatly to semi-formal and fashion suits so be sure to read our separate articles on fashionable dinner suits / tuxedos, which additionally focuses its pairing with street wear.
Yes, suits in 2009 and 2010 are all about classic elements but there are still plenty of factors away from the trend elements that you have to contemplate. Consider all of the following before making an investment in a suit this year.
How Many Buttons?
The amount of buttons a single-breasted suit jacket should sport is really a matter of personal preference, but let me offer the following.
One Button
A single button falls into the realm of a fashion suit; it's been a trend before and will go out again. And there's a reason for it: within reason, the more buttons a suit jacket has the taller a gentleman looks (yet another of the visual tricks a suit can perform). So it stands to reason that a single-buttoned suit does the opposite to conveying stature. So unless you're over 6' 2", I'd suggest you avoid a single-buttoned suit.
Two Buttons
My preference for a modern suit. It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.
Three Buttons
Very much a look of the 1990's, it's making a come back and has been seen amongst the tailored wares of Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Three buttons convey a greater sense of height than a two button suit, but are harder to pull off. I own several, and wear most of them in a fashion-forward sense. Definitely one for the more confident amongst us.
Four Buttons or more
Please don't. I'm yet to see any four button suits offered in 2009 which truly impress me, fall within current men's trends, and will figure in as a good investment piece beyond this year.
The Shoulder
A lot of suit terms can be mixed and matched, but I'm a fan of something I've always called the 'British rolled-shoulder.' Others might call it something else, but it is effectively where the shoulder padding finishes. A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve, and figures into men's suiting as another visual trick - this time designed to make the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.
Vents
This one is really simple: choose a suit with two side vents. The only time to break this rule is if you're buying a dinner suit.
When tailored correctly a suit jacket with side vents is always preferential due to the perfect silhouette it can provide.
Lapels
Since the mid-20th Century notched lapels on a suit have been the staple, but as we return towards classic tailoring in 2009 we'll see a return of the peaked lapel. Last at the fore of fashion in the 1920s, the peaked lapel is another of the great visual elements of a men's suit: it helps convey the much coveted V shape.
That said, notched lapels aren't out of fashion and both are an equally good investment.
Which Cloth Should You Pick?
The fabric you buy your suit in will be on of the biggest factors in the price you pay, but selecting the right fabric will also play a big factor in whether you buy an investment piece or a one season wonder.
Wool
The clear favourite for suits, but pick carefully. I've seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards a super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 120 and 150. I tend towards 150 as it's often perfect on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, in more extreme climates you'll need both Winter (200 thread count) and Summer (100 thread count) suits in wool.
Cotton
Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake: it's best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colours which aren't black and grey, tending towards navy and tan. If you're looking for a good cotton suit in a modern, slim classic then look to Ralph Lauren's Black Label.
Linen
So many men simply don't understand linen, and it's often those of us who have had the luck of a childhood in Europe that may ever truly appreciate it. But a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid Summer days. Shy away from it in browns, and wear it in colours such as white and cream and you'll stand out in a crowd of otherwise dull suit wearers.
One final note on linen: don't be scared of its penchant for creasing, it's all a part of the fabric's charm.
Spring/Summer 2010 Clothes: Key Looks for WOMEN
- Many recent fashion trends have pointed to it, and given the popularity of the likes of lingerie as outerwear it should really come as no surprise. Yes, hem lines continually become shorter as time marches on, but Spring 2010 may be the first season where hem lines can be predominantly measured in negative figures.
- Hot Pants
- Once upon a time hot pants were considered more suited to a gymnasium than the streets. But then, in late 2007, the leotard came back into fashion. While it didn't peak on the streets until 2009, and was often worn under skirts, shorts or long furs, in the case of Kate Moss, its prevalence guaranteed that hot pants would indeed be worn by forward thinking fashionisers.
- And so there it was on the Spring 2010 catwalks. And again in the front row. Always on the confident personality. Always on a great figure.
- Those two latter parts are key to this fashion trend. It is not for the faint of heart, nor those who aren't confident about their figure.
Two hot pant styles for 2010
One of the two styles for hot pants in 2010, mid-cut hot pants, start at or just below the belly button. A modern interpretation of the look, it was far less common on the Spring 2010 catwalks though was the style favoured by Miuccia Prada for her Spring 2010 collection.
High-Waisted Hot Pants
As it was on the catwalks, so I suspect it shall be on the streets. To balance the fact that a negative hem line is going to reveal a lot of skin high waisted hot pants will be the strongest look for this trend in 2010.
For those who have enjoyed the vintage revival of recent years have, a vintage interpretation of hot pants is definitely on the cards. To achieve a vintage look invest in a good pair of high-waisted hot pants. When wearing them, look to the classic pin-up girl for inspiration. In particular, draw on the girly motifs that are evident in most pictures of vintage hot pants; nautical detailing is a prime example (just don't take it to the level of being a parody) though a fusion of hot pants and lingerie as outerwear is the most predominant for Spring 2010.
Vintage influenced hot pants from Marc Jacobs Spring 2010
Tips for wearing hot pants in 2010
- Look for a negative hemline: the hemline of your hot pants ought to curve up the outer thigh. Around the back it needs to at least follow the shape of your derriere. Some styles will curve up the thigh and the cheeks, revealing what we hope is a perfectly toned bum; we implore that such a cut be kept for the evenings
- Wear hot pants only with heels, unless your name happens to be Gisele Bundchen, Natasha Poly, or you happen to be employed by Victoria's Secret for the job of 'Angel'. Heels will slim out your figure, and give shape to both your legs and derriere
- On the same point, if you're wearing hot pants in a vintage style (see below for more on that) consider wearing mid-height t-bars for a cute yet sexy look
- If you translate the look from Spring 2010 into the Autumn (Fall) / Winter season, or even wearing out hot pants on a cool Summer evening, consider wearing them over tights or stockings. Also consider bold patterned or coloured tights, to increase the impact of the look
- In the same vein: hot pants in Spring 2010 are all about colours and patterns. Don't feel you have to wear them solely in black, that was a 2009 interpretation of the look. Also look for unique pieces courtesy of a different fabric; a fusion between hot pants and the leather fashion trend could work wonders, though we're also partial to a fusion with knits
- Night time hot pants allow for a whole new level of detailing, such as sequins and studs (though these aren't precluded from day light hours)
- Avoid the 'I forgot my pants' look that became the staple of stockings and leggings instead of pants in 2009; it's now all too common, and generally frowned upon. To do so, either choose a bold pattern (as suggested above) or accessorise. You might add a belt around your waist or hips to balance out your interpretation of the trend
- In wearing hot pants you're showing a lot of skin, so consider pairing them other articles of clothing that tone them down. A loose cut top, such as a billowy blouse or a boyfriend blazer, might be the perfect match
- Day time is the perfect time to fuse hot pants with the 2010 sports-wear fashion trend
- Finally, akin to the bare midriff fashion trend I have to honestly caution you: you have to have the body for 2010's hot pants. With a negative-hemline, wearing them means showing off your bum. Fantastic if you've got a great bum, but prone to derision if you're don't.
Tap Pants: a loose alternative
For those days when you're not feeling up to the bum-hugging look of boy shorts or hot pants, consider instead loose boy shorts / tap pants. More a part of the lingerie as outerwear fashion trend than the hot pants fashion trend, loose boy shorts in 2010 should pair flowing shorts with, preferably, lace or semi-sheer material.
Body Suits
Over the past years body suits have come to represent a basic item; not a basic in the sense that everyone has been wearing them, but in the sense that they've primarily been worn in basic colours and styles. That's meant that fashionisers could take the focus off the body suits themselves and use them as a blank canvas to be paired with statement accessories and eye-grabbing layers.
Spring 2010 will see that change. Yes, bodysuits will still be used with layers, but they'll become the statement pieces themselves. Francesco Scognamiglio's Spring 2010 catwalk made best use of this interpretation of the look, infusing the Grecian fashion trend into two body suits (both below). Rochas Spring 2010 collection also featured body suits, but these were in knit fabrics somewhat reminiscent of vintage bathing suits.
The difference between hot pants, boy shorts and short shorts
While analysing this trend two things became clear: #1 the distinction between the styles of hot pants, short shorts, and boy shorts wasn't in the least bit clear, #2 that this was as a result of the fact that public taste has largely changed. As you peruse the pictures above and those in the inspiration gallery below you'll realise that what counted as hot pants the last time they were a trend would now be considered a short short (at most). As such, for 2010 a redefinition of the styles is needed:
Hot Pants
- Have a negative hem line
- Are cut up the outer thigh
- Reveal some part of the derriere be it a small part of the bottom of the cheek, or a larger part
- Can be mid or high waisted
Boy Shorts and Short Shorts
- Have a neutral hem line
- Sit under the cheeks
- Generally low waisted, though some designers have interpreted the short in short shorts to only affect the hem line and not the belt line
Tap Pants
- Have a hem usually no more than 2 inches long
- Hem line generally has a straight or ruffled finish
- Not figure hugging
- Heavily influenced by lingerie
Body suits
- Have a negative hem line, generally revealing a large part of the derriere
- In 2010 feature more patterns and bolder cuts
